Slow Down, This Ain't The Mainland

SLOW DOWN. THIS AIN'T THE MAINLAND. The faded sticker on the back of therusty pickup in front of our rental car was easy to read since we werehanging about three feet off the poor guy's bumper. Yeah, we weretailgating. But he was doing about 40 mph, and my husband and I were in ahurry to start our relaxing Hawaiian vacation. After all, we had a hundredand one things to do on Maui and only ten days to do it in.Two local guys with skin the color of koa wood lounged on sand chairs in thecargo bed of the truck. Trade winds rather than vehicle speed must haveaccounted for their blowing hair. Clearly, they were not late for work. Aswe passed on the left, the young men made hand signals at us. Fingers wereextended.I was shocked.It wasn't middle fingers like I'd expect on the 405, but a friendly wave ofthumbs and pinkies. Even after our aggressive driving stunt, we had justbeen welcomed to the island aloha style. I turned to my husband and said, "Idon't think we're in Orange County anymore."We smiled at our new buddies and waved back awkwardly, instantly hooked onMaui.Our first couple trips were typical hotel/air packages. The big resorts werebeautiful, plush, and exotic yet I wanted less manicured, more mess. Nomanufactured Hollywood version of palm swaying romance would satisfy me; Iwanted it real. Could the island be experienced in a more authentic way? Was"Old Maui" alive but buried under golf courses and tourist traps? And mostimportantly, could I find it before my plane left Kahalui? Yes, yes, and yes.Vintage aloha still exists on Maui, even flourishes. Leave Whalers'Village--or Little South Coast Plaza as I call it-behind and you'll discovertraces of the true and gentle island spirit. If you want a vacation thatbypasses Molokini cruises and timeshare presentations, here are some small,jewel-like treasures to uncover:For the story of the islands in dance, skip the "Las Vegas" luaus massiveenough to herd in mainlanders like cattle, or rather "cash cows." Forget themetallic grass skirts, the lame one-liners, the let's put a coconut bra onsome fat guy from Iowa and make him do the "Hukilau."Instead, go see hula at the Lahaina Cannery Mall. There are several shows aweek and it is free. The local hula schools perform in full costume forfamilies, friends, and visitors. Don't expect slickly professional,especially from the children or keiki. Do expect a graceful and beguilinghomage to native heritage.Some things just seem to go with Hawaii. Imagine a south sea paradisewithout Kodachrome sunsets, tropical drinks garnished with flowers andpineapple, or my favorite hot weather Hawaiian treat-shave ice. It'sunthinkable. I know one man who bicycles ten miles each way every day forLorraine's Shave Ice on Hwy 30 in the tiny hamlet of Kahakuloa (open summeronly).Ask Lorraine to show the kids her "pet crocodile," actually areptilian-shaped mountain while you slurp your guava shave ice with a scoopof ice cream in the bottom. Don't leave without picking up a jar of her home made passion fruit jelly. Spicy and sophisticated, it makes a far morememorable souvenir than another blue box of macadamia nuts.I know your mother told you to never pick up hitchhikers, but things aredifferent on Maui. So don't tell her. Thumbing a ride is as common as skimboarding. Everyone we have picked up has been grateful for the ride andrepaid us by sharing wonderful stories as well as tips on off-the-guidebooksplaces to eat, see, or visit. One surfer recommended the Bamboo Forest onthe Pipiwai Trail in Southeast Maui, a scenic hike we'd never heard of.So what's the best beach on Maui? It depends on what you want. Ho'okipa isspectacular for windsurfer watching and always worth the stop, but the wateris way too rough for swimming. Sunbathing is out too unless you don't mindbeing wind-whipped by your own hair.My favorite beach is Napili Bay. A medium-sized cove of golden sand, gentlesurf, and great snorkeling, Napili is just south of Kapalua. Ringed bylow-rise condos and the Napili Kai Beach Resort, this sunny family beach isa worthy and affordable place to park your suitcases. Napili grows on you.Many families come back year after year. For some it's a decades-oldtradition.You can tease out bits of old Hawaii even in the middle of touristactivities. One of our favorite things to do is stroll the Boardwalk atKa'anapali anytime after sunset. Elegant statues and stone carvings line thetiki-torch path. Walk towards Lahaina, past the Marriott until you reach therope hammocks strung between the palms. Big enough and private enough forlovers or several giggling children stacked on top of one another, thehammocks afford glorious views of blistering stars though whispering fronds.Waves crash just feet away, and if you are really lucky, the moon mightshine a path straight across the channel to Moloka'i. Mmmm.rock a while. It's pure Maui bliss.Another tour bus destination is the Sugar Cane Train out of Lahaina. Sure it's hokey. But if you stop first at the tiny hole-in-the-wall bakery a fewhundred feet shy of the train station and pick up some crusty French breador danishes and wash it down onboard with some ice-cold coconut milk stillin the husk, then you've elevated the experience. A tip-sit in the back carfacing the rear. You get to look at pretty scenery instead of the backs ofJapanese tourists.Leis are a vital component of Hawaiian culture, layered with meaning. AuntieNani teaches the art, history, and customs of lei making at the shops atKapalua. She brings along fresh-picked plumeria and other local flowers aswell as biting commentary and an occasional swear word. Local color and alei you made yourself for only two bucks. I bet that's not what you expectfrom one of the most exclusive resorts in West Maui.I know you are on vacation, but go to church anyway. You won't regret it.Kahana Door of Faith, a tiny church on Lower Honoapiilani Road in Kahana,has a Sunday service filled with island gospel music complete with ukaleles,hula, and prayer. Don't dress up; it's come as you are. Barefoot childrenmeander in and out while the aunties in their colorful muumuus occasionallyscoop them up for kisses. The congregation embraced me-and I mean thatliterally-and then invited to share in a celebratory feast afterward. Isampled delicacies both foreign and delightful.So if you too are in pursuit of the spirit of "Old Maui," look first to herpeople. Ask the gap-toothed wizened old fisherman on a stretch of emptybeach about his catch, talk to the bodysurfing kids resting long enough tochow down on raw Top Ramen, or strike up a conversation with a lady sellingmangos from a rickety stand in front of a home with a corrugated metal roof.Then you too will be living aloha.